The Caffè degli Specchi is one of the most famous and ancient historic cafés in Italy, located in the heart of Piazza Unità d’Italia in Trieste, inside the prestigious Palazzo Stratti. Founded in 1839 by the Greek merchant Niccolò Stratti, the venue is the only survivor among the four historic cafés that once enlivened the square, then called Piazza Grande. From its opening, the Caffè degli Specchi has distinguished itself as the true salotto di Trieste, a meeting point for merchants, intellectuals, artists and citizens from all social backgrounds.
A place of history and worldliness
During the nineteenth century, the Caffè degli Specchi was frequented by prominent figures such as Italo Svevo, James Joyce and Franz Kafka, as well as:
- students and philosophers;
- officers of the Habsburg Empire.
The venue also became famous for the concerts held there, directed by young musicians like Franz Lehár. During the Habsburg period it was a meeting place for irredentists, while in the post-World War II period it became the headquarters of the British Navy, thus bearing witness to its central role in all the main historical events of the city.
The name and the legend of the mirrors
The name “Caffè degli Specchi” derives from the tradition, dating back to the nineteenth century, of engraving on mirrors or glass plates the most important historical events that took place in Trieste. These mirrors, which adorned the internal walls, were both a decorative element and a visual chronicle of the city: today only three original specimens survive, kept inside the venue.
A popular legend tells that the presence of the mirrors also served to reflect light and save on lighting, but above all to make the environment more elegant and bright.
Historical events and transformations
The Caffè degli Specchi has gone through crucial moments in Triestine history:
- In 1918, during the demonstrations for annexation to Italy, it was damaged by the celebrating crowd;
- In 1945 it was requisitioned by Yugoslav troops and then by the Anglo-Americans, who used it as headquarters until 1953.
After its return to the Triestines, the venue was renovated several times, always maintaining its nineteenth-century atmosphere and the function of “salotto cittadino”. The last renovation dates back to 2000, with the restoration of the interiors and the enhancement of the historical mirrors.
The Caffè degli Specchi today
Today the Caffè degli Specchi is managed by the Faggiotto family, well-known pastry chefs and chocolatiers, who have been able to restore the venue to its ancient splendor. The café is famous not only for its history, but also for the quality of its specialties: alongside the traditional Triestine “nero”, a small glass of chocolate is served, in homage to the local tradition.
The venue is a must-visit for Triestines and tourists, who can enjoy a unique view of the square and an atmosphere that evokes the splendors of the Habsburg Empire.
The Caffè degli Specchi thus remains a symbol of cosmopolitan Trieste, a crossroads of cultures, history and worldliness, and continues to be the beating heart of city life.